Azia

by D. B. Larousse 

photo provided by Azia

Curves and glass announce Azia’s special place as a custom-designed, locally-owned, upscale restaurant surrounded by shopping malls and chain restaurants. Within, the motif continues: frosted glass separates the foyer from the restaurant, which houses a curved bar in the front lounge and a wavy sushi counter at the back of the dining room. A spiral stairway leads to the second story, while rings of lights hang from the ceiling and a mobile of silvery fish swim above, between the bar and dining room. Tables are draped in off-white, and each place is set with silvery chopsticks as well as Western cutlery.

Marketed as “Global Fuzion… a unique blend of Modern American Cuisine and the best of exotic flavors from around the world,” Azia delivers a menu with a distinctly Asian emphasis. And, partners Patrick Van Every and Peter Lieu (of Lieu’s Chinese Bistro on the other side of Woodruff Road) and Chef Scott Vosburgh have further internationalized the restaurant’s selections by incorporating ingredients more often associated with other cultures- – Brie and pesto, for example.

We started with exotic-sounding Mongolian grilled baby back ribs, unsure what made them Mongolian. They were beautifully presented with six bones crisscrossed to form a small tower topped with an orchid. Sumptuous from slow cooking, the meat had a crisp, grilled finish and a lightly spiced sauce. For a softer start, we enjoyed creamy butternut squash soup adorned with a golf ball-sized chunk of lush lobster and a tangy swirl of jalapeño pesto. Pot stickers filled with smoked pork, goat cheese, asparagus, tomato and pesto sounded more interesting than they tasted. They had thick coats that seemed deep fried, and the filling was firm, not very flavorful. Other starters include calamari, mussels, crab cakes, scallops and the intriguing Thai tacos, described as “tempura fried shrimp tossed in a sriracha bbq sauce, sesame blue cheese napa slaw, served in a crispy wonton shell.” At a nearby table, a couple was cheerfully crunching on this unusual and attractive looking combination. Several salads provide an alternative first course, including ahi tuna Hawaiian poke style. We recommend the duck salad with several slices of medium-rare duck breast fanned around a crisp, greaseless wonton basket filled with lightly dressed baby greens.

A separate sushi menu offers a wealth of varieties. Some diners were ordering these as starters, as we did, while others ordered them as meals. Beautifully presented with fresh curly cabbage leaves rather than paper partitions and accompanied by generous portions of ginger and wasabi, the sushi is made even more special by the use of real crab and lobster in the rolls. You can order sashimi and sushi in combination platters in addition to a la carte.

Azia’s main course menu is extensive, featuring seafood and beef with additional options of chicken, pork, duck and lamb among its dozen-plus listings. Dynamite crusted sea bass was delightful, its crust just a dusting of spicy flavor with a delicate, silky truffled butter sauce. A few greens peeked out from under the tender white fish, and vegetables pressed into curls spaetzle-style then fried added crunch. At nearby tables, other fish dishes looked similarly attractive. Our filet of beef arrived slightly more medium than the medium-rare we ordered but was very tasty indeed; a kobe beef version is available as well. Also on the menu were blackened ahi tuna, grilled salmon, crab-crusted mahi, citrus-dusted scallops, a whole snapper Chinese style, crab cake, rack of lamb, grilled pork tenderloin, grilled chicken breast, half a roasted duck, short ribs and steaks – all with interesting accompaniments and spices from a variety of cultures and cuisines. On a busy weekend, we observed nearby patrons enjoying attractive presentations of lamb, chicken and sushi platters.

If all the desserts are as good as the two we tried, you can’t go wrong. Our server let us know that the chocolate souffle would take “16 minutes,” which was fine with us for lingering over an after-dinner drink. We didn’t use a timer, but the wait seemed reasonable and the souffle an interesting variation, its center “molten chocolate” sliding over its more solid sides and blending with lovely lightly coffeed kona ice cream and swirls of raspberry coulis. Azia’s bread pudding was enriched with apples, a splash of bourbon and a caramel glaze. Other sweet endings were peanut butter mousse crepes, New York cheesecake, mousse cake and crème brulee.

Wines are attractively displayed in racks throughout the restaurant; prices include many moderate as well as higher-end bottles and a small selection of wines by the glass. Unique to local restaurants is a choice among a dozen sakes to complement any of the Asian dishes or enjoy as aperitif or digestif.

Azia aims to please, from the greeter who opens the door for you to the Mandarin-shirted server who keeps tabs on your pace and preferences. A manager circulates frequently, stopping by most tables at least once. Separated from the main dining area by a partial wall, the busy bar and lounge can be noisy, adding to the din from the large main room with its high ceilings and hundreds of seats. Smokers are welcome on the patio, keeping the interior smoke free. At Azia, the energy level is high, the menu filled with surprises, the décor stylish and the service excellent. On the way out, grab a matchbox filled not with matches but with small rounded toothpicks, a whimsical reminder of a delightful dinner. n

Azia

15 Market Point Drive

Greenville, SC 29607

864-297-0788

Mon-Thur 5-10 p.m.

Friday 5-11 p.m.

Sat 4-11 p.m.

Sun brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

http://www.aziagreenville.com

After Hours

What’s in a name?
Learning about wine is not just for sommeliers
by Richard Peck

Two questions wine professionals hear frequently are, “What’s that word for your job – sommelier?” and “How did you get started learning about wine?”

Consider this your personal FAQ for both questions. The second question is more important, of course, since learning about wine is not just for sommeliers! Every wine enthusiast benefits from learning to better appreciate wine and making smarter purchases. So, let’s deal with that odd word “sommelier” first, then get down to specifics about how your can enhance your own wine knowledge.

“Sommelier” (pronounced “suhm-el-YAY”) comes from French roots. Originally the word had less to do with wine, and more to do with arranging all sorts of provisions and transporting them on pack animals. Even today, provisioning remains important. A restaurant’s sommelier or wine director is responsible for selecting cellar-worthy wines and ensuring they are properly stored. Over time, however, the word took on additional meanings. Today, deep knowledge of wines, the ability to suggest food pairings and gracious service skills also are expected of sommeliers.

How sommeliers and wine directors acquire that knowledge brings us back to the question: “How do you learn about wine?” Answers vary, but most fall into three categories: reading, tasting and formal training.

Reading and tasting go hand-in-hand, but a little background is always helpful. There is no better place to begin than with “The Wine Lover’s Companion” by Ron and Sharon Herbst. Organized like a dictionary, it proceeds from A to Z and includes virtually every grape, region and term about which you might be curious. This book is the contemporary equivalent of Frank Schoonmaker’s classic, Encyclopedia of Wine, no longer in print but still available from booksellers offering used books. The A to Z arrangement is just as readable, but more useful for reference, than popular (and quite good) books like Karen MacNeil’s “Wine Bible.”

When seeking information, don’t ignore Internet resources. Wikipedia.com is one of the easiest places to start. Wikipedia articles include links to related words and ideas. Additional references at the end of most articles provide sources of more information.

Whatever your sources of information, tasting is essential. The only way to develop your palate and learn what you like is actually to try a wide assortment of wines. Upstate residents are fortunate that numerous restaurants and retailers offer regular tastings and opportunities for wine education. Table 301 (www.table301.com) has four staff members who have earned Certified Sommelier status from The Court of Master Sommeliers. A full wine program, as well expert help tableside, is available at Table 301 restaurants. Wine retailers, Richard deBondt and David Williams at Northampton Wines (www.northamptonwines.com), also offer an ongoing program of wonderful Friday night tastings.

Finally, even though you may not be a wine professional, don’t ignore formal training. Depending on your current level of knowledge, enjoyable opportunities for wine education can range from “Wine 101” classes to more advanced seminars and even introductory courses offered by The Court of Master Sommeliers, the Society of Wine Educators and the Wine and Spirits Education Trust. E-mail me if you have questions or would like more information: richard@table301.com.

Wine education – it’s not just for sommeliers! n